eMail me with comments or suggestions corey@cabler.com
Contents
1 Where is this FAQ kept and is there an archive of the group?
2 Other sled related computer information
2.1 Snowmobile related businesses' Internet mail addresses
2.2 WWW sites
3 A very little bit of history
4 How do I get into the sport?
4.1 I've never ridden (or hardly ridden) a snowmobile but want to,
what should I do?
4.2 I've got some experience and am ready to buy a sled. How do I
go about doing that?
4.2.1 Buying a new machine.
4.2.2 Buying a used machine.
5 I've got my sled, now what else?
5.1 Clothing
5.2 Be prepared
6 Yearly maintenance
6.1 Summerizing a sled
6.2 Prepping a machine for winter
7 Vintage snowmobiles
8 Aftermarket pipes
9 Clutching
10 Spark plugs
11 Fuel
12 Fogging troubles (Help I can't see!)
13 Fluid weights
14 Yearly snowmobiling events
15 Magazines
16 Books
17 Videos
18 Trail/Lodging/Tourism information numbers
18.2 Idaho
18.4 Minnesota
18.5 Montana
18.6 New York
18.7 New Hampshire
18.9 Utah
18.11 Wisconsin
18.12 Wyoming
19 Sled related programs and info
19.1 Steer Clear Program
19.2 Trail-Safe Trail Markers
20 Product suppliers
20.1 OEM manufactures
20.2 Aftermarket manufactures
20.3 Used and vintage parts
1 Where is this FAQ kept and is there an archive of the group?
The FAQ is kept on my hard drive. You can get it monthly from
rec.sport.snowmobiles or you can send e-mail to danc@park.uvsc.edu and
request a copy of it. Make sure the subject of your mail has some
reference to the rec.sport.snowmobiles FAQ. Also, copies of this FAQ
are on a couple of web sites (brain.mde.umn.edu:1996) and available
from ftp.execpc.com in the /snowmobiles directory. As far as I know
there isn't an archive for rec.sport.snowmobiles. I and a couple of
others have some classic posts from the distant past, but no archive.
There are a few people on the net whose systems keep the posts for
quite a while so if you need something specific post to the news group
and see what you get.
2 Other sled related computer information
2.1 Snowmobile related businesses' Internet mail addresses
Too many to list. Your best bet is to ask the news group
and someone will be able to help. E-mail addresses have a way
of changing so ask and you'll get the latest. I've included as
many as I have in the supplier list at the end of this FAQ.
Search for either their name or the @ symbol to see which ones
have E-mail addresses. Also, if you want to see more companies
using the net then ask them when you talk to them on the phone
if they have an E-mail address. If they don't, suggest that
they get one.
2.2 WWW sites
I used to try and maintain a list of these, but thankfully
there has been a large growth in web sites relating to
snowmobiling lately and I can't keep up. Post to
rec.sport.snowmobiles and you'll get a good list from someone,
or use one of the web search engines. Also, search through the
product suppliers at the end of this FAQ for "WEB" and you'll
find ones that I've included with the companies.
3 A very little bit of history
Rec.sport.snowmobiles has been a rec news group since early
1996. Before that we were around for several years as
alt.snowmobiles. We started out pretty small with only a few posts a
day and sometimes none. We've grown quite a bit and now enjoy the
benefits of being a member of the rec hierarchy. There is no
moderator, but as with all use of the net, remember your netiquette
when posting.
4 How do I get into the sport?
4.1 I've never ridden (or hardly ridden) a snowmobile but want to,
what should I do?
A big question, that's probably why you asked it. The first
thing you should do is scrape together some money and rent a
machine for a day. Go with an experienced rider who can help
you by teaching you how to pilot the sled and what to wear. If
you don't know anyone who rides ask a local dealer, or the
place where you're going to rent your machine from for the
names of people you can ask to go riding with you. A local
club would be a good idea, there is always a member of the club
wanting to go riding. Also, many states and/or communities are
now offering snowmobile safety classes. If you're a first time
or fairly new rider see if you can find one of these classes in
your area to take. It will teach you the basics of safe
operation of a snowmobile.
Renting is the best first step because you will get an idea
of whether or not you like the sport enough to dump money into
sleds, trailer, and tow vehicle. It is a good idea to rent for
several times. This will serve a couple of purposes. You'll
probably be able to rent many different makes/models of sleds
and that will help you get a feel for what machine you're going
to want to buy. It also allows you to gain experience on
smaller machines that you might outgrow quickly. An example:
You weigh 200 lbs. and go out and rent a Polaris Indy Sport.
It is great fun, but after a few rides you find that you can
handle the machine very well and that it doesn't have enough
umph for the kind of riding you are learning to enjoy. If you
have been renting it you can now look at buying a bigger
machine which will fill your needs for a couple of years to
come. If you climb on that bigger machine from the beginning
you could find it a handful to control and will likely have a
less than fun time. Entry level machines are just that, entry
level. Unless you can pass it on to your kids you might not
have a use for it after you outgrow it in a few rides.
4.2 I've got some experience and am ready to buy a sled. How do I
go about doing that?
4.2.1 Buying a new machine.
You are going to have to find a dealer for the
make of machine you want to buy. In the spring time
all of the manufactures have shows in the snow belt
areas which show off their new machines. In the
fall, a lot of dealers will have an "open house"
which is a good time to stop in, see what they offer,
and get a good deal on accessories or parts. Ask
around when you see people with machines about who
their dealer is and what their experience has been.
Again, members of a local club can help you out here.
Your probably going to get your best price on a
new machine in the spring. All of the manufactures
offer "snow check" programs in which you order your
machine in the spring and get it in the fall. This
usually costs you a minimum in a deposit ($200-$500)
and they usually give you a "snow check" for
merchandise such as helmets, bibs, or sled covers.
As far as criteria for buying a new sled, your
going to have to figure out what matters to you.
Price, looks, and performance all figure in to it.
Probably the most important thing about buying a new
sled is getting a good dealer. That's one of the
benefits to buying a new sled... warranty/dealer
service. Find a good one and stick with them. They
may be $100 more on the price of the sled you want,
but if its a good dealer it will be well worth the
extra $100 down the road.
4.2.2 Buying a used machine.
This is a good way to get a great machine for
considerably less than what a new one would cost you.
Many of the things about buying a used car hold true
when buying a used sled. Even the best sleds loose a
lot of value in the first couple of years after their
purchase. A lot of people out there want to always
ride the latest and greatest so they will unload
their machines every year or two to get new ones.
That is good for some of us who don't want to spend
the big bucks on a brand new machine, yet want to
ride current iron.
The paper is a good place to start looking for a
machine. Check out the classified adds for a couple
of weeks prior to buying so that you can get a feel
for what machines are going for in your area. Good
deals come along quite often so don't be afraid to be
picky. Go look at used machines, even ones your
really not interested in buying. It will give you an
idea as to what general condition machines are kept
in by their owners. Below is a list of things to
check when you get serious about a machine.
1-Book value. Local dealers can give this to you.
It often doesn't really reflect what a specific
machine can be sold for, but if the book value is
$2000 and the guy wants $4000 for it then there had
better be a good explanation for the added value or
you walk away.
2-General condition. Is there any scrapes,
breaks, scratches, tears, dents, or other visual
damage. Make sure you check the underneath side of
the machine. The belly pan where the engine sits can
take some pretty sever abuse. Check it out and check
out the skis to see if the sled has had any
unfortunate run-ins with things it shouldn't.
3-Mileage and any service the owner has done.
Snowmobiles have two-stroke motors. There is more
wear in a two-stroke motor than a four-stroke. High
miles on a snowmobile would be in the neighborhood of
8000+ depending on the model. Higher performance,
larger displacement machines are more sensitive to
miles. For example, a 340 fan cooled machine is
probably in better condition at 8000 miles than a 900
liquid cooled rocket... at least in general terms.
The lower the miles the better. Suspension parts,
bearings, and tracks have a limited life. If the
mileage is above 3000 miles some of these hard parts
are getting on in their life cycle. Ask the owner
what he has had done to the machine and if anything
has been replaced or fixed. If he is as anal as I am
about maintaining sleds and keeping records he'll
have records for everything ever done to the machine.
4-Mechanical condition. Ideally it would be good
to have a dealer look it over, but this probably
won't be possible in most situations. You could
divide your investigation into two parts:
chassis/suspension and engine/drive train. Check the
steering for excessive looseness. Look over the
suspension arms and supports for straightness and
wear. Suspension mounting points should be tight.
Check the track for tears, cracks or punctures.
Check the rear suspension for free movement and look
over the bogie wheels to make sure that none are
broken. With the engine, start it and listen for any
strange sounds. Lift the hood and watch the motor as
you give it a little throttle, excessive vibration or
clatter is a bad sign. Check the clutches,
especially the faces where the belt rides, for cracks
or deep scratches. Also, if there is lots of oil or
dirt around the clutches then I'd be a bit leery of
the condition. Take a compression check of the motor
if you know how. A dealer can give you ball park
numbers, but in general anything over 100 psi is ok
and the cylinders should all be within 10-15% of each
other's readings.
Finally, ask the owner questions about what work
has been done on it. Has the motor ever been apart?
What have you replaced? Why are you selling it? If
something doesn't seem right then don't buy it...
another deal will come along.
5 I've got my sled, now what else?
5.1 Clothing
Keeping warm while riding will do more to make your
experience enjoyable than anything else. There are lots of
different things to do to keep warm, so here are some general
guidelines. First off, dress in warm layers, much like you
would if you were going skiing. Sledding, once you get used to
the machine, is a very physical sport which you have to work
at. You want to have several warm layers which you can add or
remove depending on the conditions and your level of activity.
A good pair of warm gloves is a must. Most of the newer
machines have hand warmers on them, but always remember that
these can malfunction so be prepared with a good pair of
gloves. Also a good pair of boots which allow your feet to
have room will help to keep the tootsies toasty. I use Sorel
boots, but just about any good winter boot will do. Again,
basic winter outdoor smarts come in here. Keep your feet warm
by layering in a couple of pairs of socks inside you boots. I
can safely say that my feet have never been too warm when
riding.
I want to make special notice of one item which is a must
for you to have... a helmet. Snowmobiles can travel at a
pretty good speed now days and even though your surrounded by
fluffy snow there are still plenty of hard objects from your
head to come into contact with. Wear a good brain bucket... if
your in a wreck your family will thank you for it afterwards.
There are lots of different types of helmets out there from
ones made for sledding to motocross styles. I've seen them all
in use on the snow and they all work. See the "Fogging"
section in this FAQ for specific items relating to a helmet and
keeping it clear of fog.
5.2 Be prepared
The very nature of snowmobiling places you in certain risks.
Never mind the obvious things such as running into someone or
something on the trail, just riding around out in the middle of
nowhere in the depth of winter has a certain chilling danger to
it. Be prepared for the possible. You're riding a machine and
machines tend to have problems at very inopportune times. You
need to be ready to spend some time out there in the cold in
the event something goes wrong. Put together a simple survival
kit with things in it to signal with, build a fire with and
stay warm with. Also a little bit of food and water can be
very handy. As the discussions come, I'll add specific ideas
for what your survival kit should include, but give it some
thought before you head out and take some basics with you.
You also need to be ready for some minor trouble with your
machine. Sleds are notorious for eating belts and fouling
plugs. Any dealer worth his salt should include an extra belt
and extra plugs with the machine. Have the dealer or rental
place explain to you what the symptoms of a bad belt or fouled
plugs are and show you how to change them. Then practice it
once or twice with the dealer so you know how. I had the
rather distasteful pleasure of helping search for a gal in the
mountains one time who had fouled a plug and didn't know how to
change them. When we found her she was cold and VERY scared
and probably soured on sledding in general. We changed the
plugs with what she had on the machine and she rode on out... a
needless bit of stress for all involved. Also, carry a tow
strap so that if a sled breaks down in your group you have a
way of towing it out. Again, ask your dealer what the best
method for towing your sled would be and have him show you how
to do it.
I'm also going to recommend that you never, never, never
snowmobile alone. Did I say never? I mean never. Now many
are going to take exception to this and that is fine, but I'm
writing the FAQ so it stays in here. Its up to you, but its
sure easier to do just about everything you do on a sled when
there are two sleds. If one breaks down, you have another one
to get back on. If one person crashes and gets hurt, you have
a sled to get help on. There are always exceptions to advice
like this, but in my book, NEVER sled alone.
6 Yearly maintenance
6.1 Summerizing a sled
A little bit of effort on your part in the spring time can
make a world of difference on how well your machine runs over
time, how easy it is to get started each year, and how long it
will give you flawless service. Some things are a must do and
others are a good idea, which if you are very picky about your
machine, you will want to do. Note that these suggestions are
a general guideline, you should check your owner's manual for
specific things related to your machine. If your machine has a
battery/fuel injection then there is a specific method of
taking care of that which will be detailed in your owners
manual.
Must do things: 1-Either drain the fuel tank or add some
fuel stabilizer to it. If you drain the tank, make sure that
you also drain the carbs (a good idea no matter what). If you
use fuel stabilizer, add it to the tank and then run the
machine for a few minutes to make sure that the fuel with the
stabilizer gets circulated into the carbs. 2-Clean the
machine. Make sure that there isn't any dirt or grime on the
machine. 3-Poor a little bit of sled oil into each cylinder
and with the kill switch or ignition turned off rotate the
motor around a couple of times. You can also use a fogging oil
for this purpose. This will keep the internals of the motor
lubed so they don't rust during the summer. 4-Cover the
machine and/or store it in a dry place. If it will be stored
outside or where you're worried about rodents then you might
stuff a rag in the exhaust pipe opening to prevent the critters
from making your pipe a summer home.
Good things to do if your fanatical like me: 1-Drain the
fuel tank completely and make sure it is dry inside, then drain
the fuel lines and carbs. 2-Clean the machine both on the
outside and under the hood. Make sure there is no dirt or
grime anywhere including grease or oil on the motor. Paint the
pipes with a heat resistant paint to keep them from rusting up.
Treat the seat and other vinyl with a protectant. 3-Grease all
grease points on the machine. This will force any moisture out
of the joints and keep them from rusting solid over the summer.
4-Remove the belt from the clutches, wipe them off with a
solvent (lacquer thinner works well) and spray all clutch
surfaces with a silicone spray of some sort. This will keep
them from corroding or rusting. 5-Store the machine inside a
dry place (shed or covered trailer) and cover it with an old
sheet/blanket/bedspread to keep the dust off it. Block it up
in the air so that the suspension (front and rear) hang free.
Blocks under the belly pan/bulk head and under the rear bumper
work well for this. Once its in the air loosen the tension on
the track so that it hangs loose so that the track won't
stretch over the summer if your machine has an older track on
it. If it has a newer track with Kevlar belts then don't
loosen the track. Kevlar tracks will shrink over the summer
and will require a break-in period again in the fall when you
tighten them back up. You can also back off all shock/spring
adjustments so that the springs are as loose as possible.
6.2 Prepping a machine for winter
This section assumes that you summerized your sled properly
before putting it away for the year. Again, this is divided
into a "must" do section and a "fanatics" section.
You'll want to put in good fuel and check all the fluids
like oil and anti-freeze(if your sled is water cooled). Using
a clean rag and a good solvent wipe down the clutch surfaces.
Lube the clutches according to the specs in your owner's
manual. Check the exhaust pipe to make sure a mouse hasn't
made it his home for the year (been there, done that). Make
sure all cables work freely and that the suspension moves
freely. Lube any appropriate chassis points. Install a new
set of spark plugs properly gapped. You might want to wait
until after the first start to install your new plugs. This
way the oil that you put in to summerize the machine will coat
your old plugs and not the new ones. Start the machine and let
it idle to warm up. DON'T start it and wack it open... give it
a chance to circulate oil/fuel mixture over all the internals.
After it is warmed up, block the rear of the machine up and
spin the track easily checking for loose track clips, proper
track tension and proper track alignment.
Now if you are fanatical (yes, as I am) then you'll want to
do all the stuff listed in the first paragraph and then you
might want to do the following. Pull both clutches,
disassemble them, clean/inspect and repair any problems.
Reassemble with a good lube in the appropriate places. Check
the crank run out while you've got the clutch off with a dial
indicator. Remove the carbs, disassemble them, clean/inspect
and repair any problems. Reassemble and check the rest of the
fuel system for any problems such as cracked hoses. Lube the
throttle cables and brake cable if your's can be lubed. Check
the compression in the motor and look in the exhaust, intake
and spark plug openings to the cylinders looking for any
scarring or damage. Check the chain case gear lube level and
the chain tension. Pull the rear slide rail out and check all
the bogie wheel bearings, pivots, shafts, and shocks for wear
or damage and grease all pertinent parts. Also check the
hyfax. Reinstall the slide rail, adjust the shock/spring
settings and after the machine is running and the track is
adjusted properly, check the front skis for proper alignment
and adjustment. Make sure everything that has a grease zirk or
lube point is lubed well.
7 Vintage snowmobiles
Older machines, say 1980 and older, are a hobby for some and a
necessity for others. These machines show up in the classified adds
for very little money and can be a treasure when you find one that is
either in good shape or is restorable. Be aware that all of the
"Buying a used machine" info above is valid when looking at vintage
machines. You are also going to want to check the wiring, track,
seat, and any steel parts for signs of decay.
Finding parts for a vintage sled can be quite a task. You'll
have to decide on whether you want original parts or whether you want
something else that will work. A lot of the newer parts such as
clutches, tracks, skis, lights, etc will work on the older sleds
although they don't list them as parts for the older machines. If you
have or are going to buy a vintage sled then you had better be pretty
ingenious in applying stuff to it. A little digging can often yield
good results though. Check the used parts section of this FAQ for
places to contact for used parts. Also, check with a dealer if it is
a currently manufactured make of sled. Also, check with dealers that
have been in business for a long time. My local Polaris dealer used
to sell both John Deer and SnoJet and he still has some parts for
them.
Probably your best bet on parts for vintage sleds which are not
currently manufactured is other sledheads. There are often swap meets
associated with race events. Post your needs to the net, there are
several people who have old stuff that might be able to help you out.
Also ask around in your local snowmobile clubs and dealers.
There are also a couple of vintage snowmobile clubs in the
United States. They can give a lot of help and might be of interest
for you if you're really in to vintage iron. Their addresses are:
Antique Snowmobile Club of America
PO Box 420
Red Granite, Wisconsin 54970-0420
Vintage Snowmobile Club of America
PO Box 1111
Concord, MA 01742
8 Aftermarket pipes
Pipes offer the best HP gain for the dollar of any mod,
especially when you factor in ease of installation and reliability.
Typically, on 600cc or larger sleds, you can get a 15-20% increase in
HP over the stock pipe. Some models/makes respond better to pipes
than others do, so do some checking about your specific machine before
you buy pipes for it.
The most common question about pipes is "I have such and such a
machine, what pipe should I buy for it?" Unfortunately I'm not going
to be able to answer that question because each machine is different
and someone who makes a good pipe for say a Yamaha VMAX 600 doesn't
necessarily make the best pipe for a Yamaha VMAX-4. Sources like
Dynotech, the dealer and other riders who have piped the same machine
can offer you specific information. This discussion is simply about
pipes in general.
When you are trying to decide on whether to pipe your sled or
not and which pipe to get, you need to decide on what it is about your
machine that you want to improve. Is it fine on the bottom end, but
seems to lack top end? Maybe you never run it all the way out so your
willing to sacrifice a bit of top end HP for a wider mid range. Or
most likely, you want more power throughout the entire power band.
Whatever your motivation, you need to find the pipe that does what you
want it to do. Ask the manufacture your thinking of buying from how
the power of the machine is changed. Ask for bottom end, mid-range
and top-end power change information. A pipe that gives you 20% more
HP on the top end may have terrible bottom end and mid-range. Ask
questions! You might also want to ask what affect on rpm the pipe
has. Often the peak power location is moved above the stock peak rpm
and this can be of concern as far as reliability and motor life goes.
When you pipe a sled you are going to have to do some tuning on
the machine. The reputable pipe manufactures will give you good
instructions on how to install and tune your new pipe. If you have
worked on your machine yourself you should be able to do the install
and tuning yourself. If not, your dealer/mechanic will be able to set
it up for you. In general aftermarket pipes are noisier than stock
pipes. Some are louder than others and louder doesn't mean they are
better. One of the reasons I pipe a machine is because I like the
sound of the aftermarket pipes. I enjoy that "flesh tearing" rip that
a piped machine makes when you wack the throttle open. Just be aware
that most likely your piped machine will be noisier than the stock one
was.
As far as tuning differences, you are going to have to change
carburation and clutching to new specs that the manufacture will give
you. The clutching recommendations should be a pretty exact match,
but the carb specs will be "rich" settings and then you'll need to
tune it in from there. If all you have ever done is change the spark
plugs in your machine then I would recommend you take it to a dealer
to have the tuning done. You decide on whether or not you want to do
it yourself. Just remember that if a machine runs too lean for too
long little globs of melted aluminum will start pouring out of the
exhaust port and you'll be spending bucks on a new piston or two.
9 Clutching
Clutching is probably where you should look for the first
improvements to you snowmobile. As Kevin Bielke of Race & Rally says,
"Want to improve your sleds performance... clutch, clutch, clutch".
Clutching, however, is a black art which requires meticulous note
taking, a firm grasp of the physical laws behind it all and an
occasional sacrifice to the Gods. If you want a quick improvement to
clutching you can often find aftermarket suppliers who are offering
improvement kits for your particular machine. Again, ask around
either on the net or with other riders to see if and what they have
found to work. There are some pretty sharp people out there who have
spent the time and effort to improve a given machine's clutching.
Your trick is finding them, persuading them to share their info
(either through bribery or threat of personal injury) and getting it
applied to your machine.
The real fun begins when you decide that you want to tinker
with your clutching yourself. This is where the sacrificing to the
Gods and firm grasp of principles comes in. I believe you should take
notes on every change you make, whether its something you've come up
with or something that is recommended to you by someone else. If you
want to play with clutching yourself then notes will be invaluable.
I've been tuning sleds for many years now and I still am not a genius
when it comes to clutching. Your best bet is to first get any info
you can. The best source for this is Olav Aaen's clutch tuning book.
Buy it, read it, sleep on it, read it again, fiddle with your
clutching, read it again and keep repeating until you start to grasp
it. WARNING!!! Clutching is a difficult thing to grasp. Its fun when
it works, but your going to have more failures than successes when you
first start off, but if you have good notes you can step back a change
or two and approach from another direction. Also, several of the sled
magazines often have clutching or other tech tips in them. And of
course, there are a few people on the net who dabble in this black art
and might be able to help you out.
10 Spark plugs
Another can of worms. I'm tempted to sum this up in a couple
of sentences and move on. Does one plug work better than another?
Maybe. Is an $8 plug worth the money? Probably not. In general, you
won't go too far wrong running the same plugs that came in your
machine new. The choice of plug by the factory, however, is often
more of a contract concern than a performance concern. I run only NGK
plugs in my machines. I moved to non-resistor plugs and non-resistor
caps, but I ride in the mountains far from anyone's TV and no one I
ride with uses communicators... we don't like to hear the screams as
someone plummets down a 60 degree slope. I will say that the general
consensus on the net is that the expensive groove type plugs do not
make any difference in sleds. Dynotech shares this consensus. Which
plug to buy is up to you. As I said, staying with what comes as OE
isn't a bad idea.
Plugs come in two forms, resistor and non-resistor. On the net
we've had several discussions about this and in general what we've
come up with is that a resistor plug cuts the interference your
machine produces on surrounding electronic equipment. Some machines,
especially those with digital ignition systems or fuel injections
controlled by computers might require resistor plugs. Check with your
dealer or the owners manual on this. Also, if you ride in an area
where you're close to housing then I recommend you run resistor plugs.
The poor souls living near the trail put up with late night riding,
with resistor plugs you just might make it easier for them to watch TV
while they can't sleep. Also, if you or your riding group uses
communicators you're probably going to want to use resistor plugs.
And finally, you ought to change your plugs once in a while. I
don't know how often to recommend this. I change mine a couple of
times a season. I would probably change them every 1500-2000 miles of
trail riding, but I'm not sure because I don't trail ride. In the
mountains, I change them no less than every 1000 miles, usually more
often. If my machine seems to be running a bit funny or not running
on a particular cylinder at all, the first thing I do is check and
usually change the plugs. A simple, inexpensive thing that often
remedies the problem.
11 Fuel
Much discussion has taken place about different fuels over time
in the news group. Of greatest concern is the move over the past few
years of certain areas to Oxygenated fuels and what affects this has
on a snowmobile. First off you should check with your dealer and/or
the manufacture of your snowmobile. They will have specific info
about your machine and may require some action on your part to ensure
that any warrantee remains valid. That said, lets talk about Oxy
fuel.
Oxy fuel is a type of fuel which has had an agent added to it
to increase its ability to burn so that the nasty pollutants are
minimized. Typically this agent is either MTBE or Ethanol. This Oxy
fuel tends to burn a bit hotter, but doesn't necessarily produce more
power in doing so. All of the chemistry aside (because I'm not a
chemist), the things you want to watch for are as follows.
Usually if your sled is bone stock and set at stock settings
you'll be ok with this fuel. Most of the jetting recommendations from
the manufactures are fairly liberal and forgiving. If your sled has
been modified in any way then you're probably going to need to
increase main jet size one notch to allow for the hotter burn of the
Oxy fuel. Another thing to watch for is moisture in your Oxy fuel.
If Ethanol is used then water can be a bit of a concern. Ethanol
absorbs moisture. Because of this, it will attract moisture over
time. Don't leave the same tank of Oxy fuel sitting in your sled for
weeks and then run it. Replace it with fresh fuel. Also, don't use
Ethanol based fuel dryers in your Oxy fuel if the Oxy agent is
Ethanol, you'll just be adding more misery to the mix.
Other fuels are available for your use depending on if you're
Racer Randy or not. A lot of guys running heavy mods use either
octane booster or aviation fuel which has a higher octane. No matter
what type of fuel you decide to run make sure you buy a good name
brand fuel with the proper octane recommendation for your machine. I
decided long ago to run name brand fuel like Chevron or Texaco and to
run super unleaded. I just don't want to worry about my fuel if I can
do something about it. Buying a good fuel will save you grief in the
long run.
Finally, the best advice about fuel is to dial your sled in on
one type of fuel and then stick with it. If your worried about Oxy
fuel then tune for it and use it. Two stroke motors can be tuned to
run on lots of different things, but they don't like sudden changes
and will protest about it in varying unpleasant ways. There is a web
page which contains all the info you ever cared to get about gasoline.
If you want some light reading check out the web page at
ram.chem.tulane.edu:8080/f-body/trivia/gasoline.html.
12 Fogging troubles (Help I can't see!)
Fogging of your glasses or your helmet lense is a rather
annoying problem which can turn dangerous if you're not careful.
Discussion as to how to combat this problem has been undertaken
several times on the net. The following info surfaced during one of
these discussions and I include it here because it gives you some good
ideas. As usual, post to the net and you'll get even more input on
it, but this should help you out.
Begin quoted message from Erik Woolstenhulme
The cure to fogging is simple (just what you wanted to here):
keep the lens warmer than the dew point of the air surrounding it or
keep the dew point of the air surrounding the lens lower than the temp
of the lens. See your physics books on this one, I don't have time to
explain the principles. Some of the methods used to do this are as
follows:
Double lens are a help. This allows the inside lens to be
warmer than the outside lens via the insulating air space in between -
thus the inside lens "may" be warmer than the dew point of the air.
In some conditions this may come true but, in general, it is
ineffective by itself.
Defogging fluids are nothing more than a thin layer of
insulation applied to the lens. The intent is that the coating will be
the same temperature as the surrounding air (which is higher than the
dew point). Here again they may work in some conditions but I would
never count on them for a solution.
The famous breath deflector is not the savior you may think it
to be. Some deflectors come in nose cone form, some as a simple small
air dam, and some as a complete isolator. These can be very effective
in many conditions but fail in others. The object here is to keep the
humid breath off the lens. The problem is that most deflectors don't
account for humidity increases caused by sweat from your face and
head. Don't minimize this point because I think it is important, more
on it later.
Another mildly successful method is ventilation. The theory:
keep the humid air flowing out of the helmet and away from the lens.
This method helps cure the humidity caused by sweat.
Last but not least is the heated visor. This increases the
temp of the shield to above the dew point of the air. This works
flawlessly for keeping frost off your visor but has you attached to
your sled, causes every snowflake to hit the visor to melt and run
down your visor, and it has the annoying little lines in them.
I fought the fog problem for 23 years and found the best I
could do wasn't enough and I had consigned myself to live with it -
until recently. I presently have an old Griffin full face, a Bell
MX/double lens goggles, and a open face with a SnoRider visor and I
would select one depending on the conditions. Recently my father
bought a full face SnoRider helmet and I never saw him get fogged. So
I carefully examined his helmet and found the real answer is the right
combination of the above features. I found these properties: A
double lens with adjustable vents at the bottom and top of the lens to
keep the area behind the lens ventilated as required by the wearer. A
breath deflector that is more of a breath/face isolator. It fits
comfortably from one side of the helmet to the other and fits up
against the checks and bridge of the nose. This effectively isolates
the breath from the lens, not just deflecting it. It also helps the
sweat problem by reducing the exposed skin area in the lens area. The
padding on the forehead was right down to the eyebrow which reduces
the exposed skin in the lens area helping the sweat isolation problem.
There was a removable chin cover in the bottom of the face guard.
Remove this because it just traps the breath in the helmet and the
incoming air through the mouth vents forces the breath up into the
lens area instead of letting it out the bottom where you want it to
go. Being the tightwad I am, and already owning a helmet, I got a
breath deflector from SnoRider and put it in my helmet (it fits great
and slipped in without a hitch) then I put a foam cupboard door bumper
on the edge of my lens so it stays cracked open about 1/16" to allow
some fresh air in. I have been seeing clearly every since. At $129 I
recommend the SnoRider without hesitation.
End quoted message from Erik Woolstenhulme
13 Fluid weights
Gasoline: 6.1 lbs/gal
Oil: 7.3 lbs/gal
Antifreeze: 9.3 lbs/gal
Water: 8.3 lbs/gal
14 Yearly snowmobiling events
14.1 Various Net.Rides, watch the news group for details on when and
where they will be.
14.2 World Championship Races Eagle River, WI
14.3 World Snowmobile Expo West Yellowstone, MT
14.4 World Champion Hillclimbs Jackson Hole, WY
15 Magazines
15.1 American Snowmobiler
Subscriber Services
PO Box 253 Newport, MN 55055 (612) 738-1953 x 612
E-mail suscribe@amsnow.com, editorial@amsnow.com
15.2 Dynotech
P.O. Box 801 Batavia, NY 14021 (716) 344-1313
15.3 Hummer Snowmobile Trail & Touring Guide
(608) 837-2200
15.4 Sno West, Snow Action
520 Park Ave Idaho Falls, ID 83402 (208) 524-7000
15.5 Sno=A5 Touring magazine
P.O. Box 190 Hubertus, WI 53033 (414) 628-9858
15.6 Snow Goer Canada
130 Spy Court Suite 310 Markham, Ontario L3R 5H6 (905) 475-8440
15.7 Snow Goer, Snow Week, Snowmobile Business
601 Lakeshore Parkway, Suite 600 Minnetonka, MN 55305
(800) 877-6118 or (612) 476-2200 E-mail SnowGoer00@aol.com
15.8 Snowmobiler's Race & Rally
P.O. Box 993 Alexandria, MN 56308 (612) 763-5411 E-mail
racerally@aol.com
15.9 SuperTrax
19285 Hwy. 7 Excelsior, MN 55331 (612 470-0600
E-mail supertrax@aol.com
15.10 The Winning Edge
PO Box 798 Farwell, MI 48622 (517) 588-9213
16 Books
16.1 Olav Aaen's Clutch Tuning Book and Carb Tuning Book. Available
from Aaen Performance. Good info on clutching and carb tuning.
17 Videos
17.1 American Magnetic Media 800-USA-TAPE
18 Trail/Lodging/Tourism information numbers
18.1 Colorado
18.1.1 Whistling Acres 800-346-1420
18.2 Idaho
18.2.1 Avalanche info
18.2.1.1 Ketchum 208-622-8027
18.2.2 Fall Creek 208-653-2242
18.3 Michigan
18.3.1 Baraga County 906-524-7444
18.3.2 Cadillac 800-224-2537
18.3.3 Gaylord 800-345-8621
18.3.4 Houghton 800-248-5253
18.3.5 Iron Mountain 800-562-7134
18.3.6 Keweenaw 800-338-7982
18.3.7 Marquette 800-544-4321
18.3.8 Sault St. Marie 800-647-2858
18.3.9 St. Ignace 800-338-6660
18.3.10 Traverse City 800-727-5482
18.3.11 Western UP lodging 906-932-4850
18.4 Minnesota
18.4.1 Babbitt 218-827-3476
18.4.2 Chisholm 800-422-0806
18.4.3 Cook 800-648-5897
18.4.4 Cuyuna Trails Chamber of Commerce
800-950-2898 Trail Conditions
218-546-5926
18.4.5 Ely 800-777-7281
18.4.6 Eveleth 218-744-1940
18.4.7 Grand Rapids 800-472-6366
18.4.8 Gunflint Trail Lodging 800-338-6932 Trail
cond 800-897-7669
18.4.9 Hibbing 800-444-2246
18.4.10 Iron Range Visitors Bureau 800-777-8497
Trail cond 800-422-0806
18.4.11 Lutsen/Tofte Lodging 800-622-4014 Trail
cond 800-897-7669
18.4.12 Voyageur Area 800-FALLS-MN
18.5 Montana
18.5.1 Winter Guide 800-VISIT-MT ext 41S
18.6 New York
18.6.1 Boonville 315-942-6823
18.7 New Hampshire
18.7.1 State info 800-258-3609
18.8 Oregon
18.8.1 Baker County 800-523-1235
18.8.2 Diamond Lake Resort 800-733-7593
18.9 Utah
18.9.1 Avalanche info
18.9.1.1 Salt Lake City 801-364-1591
18.9.1.2 Logan 801-752-4146
18.9.1.3 Ogden 801-621-2362
18.9.1.4 Park City 801-649-2250
18.9.1.5 Provo 801-374-9770
18.9.2 Alpine RV 801-785-2233
18.9.3 Beaver Creek Ldg 801-753-1076
18.9.4 Utah Parks 801-538-7221
18.10 West Yellowstone Area
18.10.1 Back Country Adv 800-924-7669
18.10.2 Chamber of Commerce 406-646-7701
18.10.3 Day's Inn 800-548-9551
18.10.4 Hibernation Station 406-646-4200
18.10.5 Meadow Creek 208-351-2667
18.10.6 Old Faithful Rental 800-541-7354
18.10.7 One Horse Motel 406-646-7677
18.10.8 Pine Shadows Motel 800-624-5291
18.10.9 Ponds Lodge 208-558-7221
18.10.10 Sawtelle Mnt 800-574-0404
18.10.11 Sawtelle Sleds 800-273-1950
18.10.12 Staley Springs Lodge 208-558-7471
18.10.13 The Ranch Motel 800-234-4083
18.10.14 Traveler's Lodge 800-831-5741
18.10.15 Westgate Station 800-255-2417
18.10.16 Yellowstone Adv 800-231-5991
18.10.17 Yellowstone Park Info 307-344-7381
18.10.18 Yellowstone Tour 800-221-1151
18.11 Wisconsin
18.11.1 Adams Co 608-339-4230
18.11.2 Antigo 800-288-6236
18.11.3 Barron County 800-523-6318
18.11.4 Burnett County Trail cond 715-349-7570
Activities 800-788-3164
18.11.5 Cable Area 800-533-7454 ext. 32
18.11.6 Hurley 715-561-FUNN
18.11.7 Lake WI 608-635-8070
18.11.8 Lincoln Co. (Tomahawk) 800-352-9602
18.11.9 Mercer 800-269-4505
18.11.10 Minocqua 800-HI-NORTH
18.11.11 Price County 800-269-4505
18.11.12 Rhinelander 800-236-4FUN
18.11.13 Rusk County 800-535-7875
18.11.14 Sawyer County Trail cond 715-634-4801 Info
800-826-3474
18.11.15 St Germain Chamber of Commerce
800-727-7203 Trail cond
715-479-1419
18.11.16 Taylor County 800-257-4729
18.11.17 Washburn County 800-367-3306
18.11.18 WI Dells 800-22-Dells
18.12 Wyoming
18.12.1 Avalanche info
18.12.1.1 Tetons-Jackson 307-733-2664
18.12.2 Carbon County 800-228-3547
18.12.3 Double Bar J Ranch 307-455-2681
18.12.4 Green River Ranch 307-367-2585
18.12.5 Pahaska Tepee Resort 800-628-7791
18.12.6 Platte Valley 307-326-5750
18.12.7 Wind River Visitors 800-645-6233
18.12.8 Wyoming Snow Guide 800-225-5996
18.13 Misc.
18.13.1 Decker Tours 715-479-2764
19 Sled related programs and info
19.1 Steer Clear Program 414-276-4242
Steer Clear is a program to reduce snowmobiling accidents
caused by unsafe operator behavior including alcohol and
substance abuse. Steer Clear stickers, decals, badges, and
brochures available.
19.2 Trail-Safe Trail Markers 800-388-4811
20 Product suppliers
20.1 OEM manufactures
20.1.1 Arctic Cat 218-681-4999
20.1.2 Polaris 800-POLARIS
www.polarisindustries.com
20.1.3 Ski-Doo 800-3SKIDOO
20.1.4 Yamaha 800-88YAMAHA
20.2 Aftermarket manufactures (alphabetical)
This is another daunting task which takes much effort. If
you know of a company not listed let me know and I'll add it to
the list, or if you find info that is incorrect please let me
know. I have tried to list the products which the companies
sell, but it is a small list and most of the companies offer
more than what I have listed. Contact them for more info.
20.2.1 AAEN
(414) 552-8981
Products: Performance parts
20.2.2 ADDvantage Sports
800-603-8002
Products: Body Gaurd sled covers
20.2.3 Advanced Clutching
101 S. Weber Avenue
Stratford, WI 54484
(715) 687-4491
Products: Clutching mods for Ski-doo
20.2.4 Ajak Industries
121 South Robinson
Florence, CO 81226
800-324-4162
Products: Big Foot ski skins
20.2.5 American Eagle Motorsports
6031 Hwy. D
Eagle River, WI 54521
(715) 479-5466
Products: Dyno facilities and machine shop
20.2.6 Atkinson Upholstery
531 N Main
Logan, Utah 84321
(801) 753-4936
Products: Light weight seats, upholstery work
20.2.7 Bender Racing
7804 Cole Road
Colden, NY 14033
(716) 941-5010
Products: Performance parts for Yamaha
20.2.8 Bergeson Interiors
3101 Fennec Lane
Idaho Falls, ID 83406
(208) 522-7249
Products: Wind shield bags, storage bags
20.2C0 Black Magic
PO Box 248
Thief River Falls, MN 56701
(218) 681-1150
Products: Arctic Cat performance products
20.2.10 Boswell Energy Systems
(715) 542-2837
Products: BOS fuel systems - call for dealer
20.2.11 Boyesen
1555 Krumsville Road
Lenhartsville, PA 19534
800-441-1177
Products: Reeds
20.2.12 Carl's Cycle Sales
5550 W State
Boise, ID 83703
(208) 853-5550
Products: Light weight parts, Fox shocks, custom
handle bars
20.2.13 Charmac Trailers
1922 Floral Ave.
Twin Falls, ID
800-544-7904
Products: Charmac Trailers
20.2.14 Chopper City
7191 Hwy. 65 N.E.
Fridley, MN 55432
(612) 572-2100
Products: Polaris dealer, Polaris performance parts
20.2.15 Collett Electronics Ltd.
90 Durand Rd
Winnipeg, Canada R2J 3T2
800-665-7888
Products: Helmet communicators
20.2.16 Comet Industries
358 NW F St.
Richmond, IN 47374
(317) 966-8161
Products: Clutches, Ride-On gas shocks
20.2.17 Cometic Gasket
8767 East Ave.
Mentor, OH 44060
800-752-9850
Products: Gasket kits for all machines
20.2.18 Cutler's Performance Center
255 N State Street
Orem, Utah 84057
(801) 224-5005
Products: Engines, light weight parts, performance
add-ons for Arctic Cat, machine shop
20.2.19 Cycle Works
9918-71 Avenue
Edmonton, AB T6E OW7
(403) 439-4991
Products: Performance products
20.2.20 Decker Enterprises
(715) 387-1208
Products: Performance parts
20.2.21 Dennis Kirk
800-328-9280
Products: Full line of sled parts and accessories
20.2.22 DG Performance Specialties
1230 La Loma Circle
Ahaheim, CA 92806
800-854-9134
Products: Pipes
20.2.23 Dyno Port Racing
RD 1, Box 105
Union Springs, NY 13160
(315) 253-9631
Products: Pipes for Polaris
20.2.24 E-Z Glider
Box 132
Bonner, MT 59823
(406) 244-5568
Products: Ski skins, snowmobile trailer
glides/protectors
20.2.25 Euro-Tech Engineering
9832 Acacia Ave. Unit No. C
Garden Grove, CA 92641
(714) 636-4461
Products: Engine and piston coatings
20.2.26 Exxiss Aluminum Trailers
PO Box 634
Soda Springs, Idaho 83276
800-733-0322
Products: Trailers
20.2.27 Falicon
(813) 797-2468
Products: Crank work
20.2.28 Fast Trac Industries
Box 1059
Lake Zurich, IL 60047
800-497-3485
Products: Traction and steering products
20.2.29 Featherlite Trailers
PO Box 320
Cresco, IA 52136
800-800-1230
Products: Trailers
20.2.30 First Choice Turbo Center
1558 W. Henrietta Rd.
East Avon, NY 14414
(716) 226-2929
Products: First Choice turbo manufacture
20.2.31 For Play International
(714) 669-8976
Products: Quick Click Battery Disconnect Kit
20.2.32 ForMax
800-651-9908
Products: Custom helixes for Arctic Cat and Polaris
20.2.33 Formula FAST
(218) 744-2101
Products: SkiDoo performance, M10 suspension
20.2.34 Hauck's
(715) 234-6195
Products: Clutches
20.2.35 Hi-Performance Engineering (HPE)
PO Box 482
Thief River Falls, MN 56701
(218) 681-2390
Products: All types of performance parts, machine
shop
20.2.36 High Altitude Engineering
PO Box PPP
Taos, NM 87571
(505) 758-3088
Products: Engines and light weight parts for Yamahas
20.2.37 Hilmerson Manufacturing
Little Falls, MN 56345
(612) 632-4065
Products: Pull behind sleds
20.2.38 Holeshot Products
6539 Rogue River Drive
Shady Cove, OR 97539
800-221-9113
Products: Skid plates, ski skins, GPS systems
20.2.39 Hot Seat Performance, Inc.
20195 Greystone Ave.
Forest Lake, MN 55025
(612)982-0600-Tech, 800-774-8878-Orders
Products: Clutch kits, adjustable compound helixes,
racing brake pads, etc.
20.2.40 HRP Motorsports
8775 Belding Road
Rockford, MI 49341
(616) 874-6338
Products: Pipes for SkiDoo
20.2.41 HTG Racing
(716) 773-6131
Products: Lectron Carb systems
20.2.42 Hymark Performance (ATS)
PO Box 57608
Murray, Utah 84107
(801) 264-8656
Products: Turbos, engine and clutch components
20.2.43 Image Enterprises
2162 Vista View Drive
Eagle River, WI 54521
(715) 479-5372
Products: Merc, Twister, Kawasaki, John Deere and
Skiroule parts, full machine shop
20.2.44 Innovative Solutions International
PO Box 88132
Carol Stream, IL 60188
(708) 653-3997
Products: Stud sharpening tools
20.2.45 J & P Enterprises
8880 Messmore
Shelby Twp., MI 48317
(810) 977-3313
Products: Slush guards
20.2.46 Jack Harris
445 N Market Street
Kaysville, Utah 84037
(801) 544-3653
Products: Turbos, turbo installation, turbo mods
20.2.47 JAS
PO Box 1
Phillips, WI 54555
(715) 339-4378
Products: Add on radiators
20.2.48 Jaws Performance
1745 Carsonby Road East
Kars, ON KOA 2EO
(613) 489-3421
Products: Pipes for SkiDoo
20.2.49 Kalaska Enterprises, Inc.
702 Union Street
Boise, ID 83702-4210
(208) 336-1674-Voice (208) 344-5797-FAX
Products: Manufacturers of the Resc-You (TM) Winch,
a neat little device that allows you to get your
machine unstuck all by your self. E-mail
rescyou@micron.net and a nice WEB page at
netnow.micron.net/~rescyou
20.2.50 Ken Ross Inc.
703 Cooper Dr.
Wylie, Texas 75098
(214) 442-3523
Products: Shock spring installer
20.2.51 Kimpex
100 Walnut Street
Champlain, NY 12919
800-777-7073
Products: Tracks, drive sprokets, slide rail slides,
helmets
20.2.52 Kinetic Balancing & Machine
8008 East Francis
Spokane, WA 99207
(509) 489-2762
Products: Clutch work
20.2.53 Koronis Parts Inc.
17003 County Rd 181
Panesvile, MN 56362
(612) 243-3555
Products: Trail Tamer suspensions
20.2.54 Land & Sea
PO Box 96
N. Salem, NH 03073
(603) 329-5645
Products: Gauges
20.2.55 Legend Performance and Technology
5110 East Traverse Hwy
Traverse City, MI 49684
(616) 933-4830
Products: Crank shaft rebuilding, stroker motors,
engine mods, carb work, clutch mods
20.2.56 Mountain Magic Sports
29 W. Oneida
Preston, ID 83263
(208) 852-0400
Products: Light weight Arctic Cat hillclimber
chassis
20.2.57 Mountain Tech Industries
5210 Foster Lane
Belgrad, MT 59714
(406) 388-6789
Products: Lightweight suspension parts
20.2.58 Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS)
5930 Lakeshore Drive
Cypress, CA 90630
(714) 821-0580
Products: Nitrous kits
20.2.59 Northern Crankshafts
Route 3, Box 170
Thief River Falls, MN 56701
(218) 964-5528
Products: Crankshaft work
20.2.60 Northern Lites
1000 MS 4th Ave. WN
Columbia Falls, MT 59912
(406) 892-0240
Products: Light weight suspension parts for Arctic
Cat and Polaris
20.2.61 Norton Performance
8 Saxon Hill Road
Essex, VT 05452
(802) 878-6332
Products: Custom engine work for Arctic Cats
20.2.62 Orion Industries
34050 732 Ave
Kimball, MN 55353
(612) 398-6175
Products: Pull behind sleds
20.2.63 Otto Gas Engine Works
2167 Blue Ball Rd
Elkton, MD 21921-3330
410-398-7340
Products: Piston rings for just about any sled.
E-mail pistonring@aol.com
20.2.64 Polar Performance
RR 6
Perth, ON K7H 3C8
(613) 264-0974
Products: Engine mods
20.2.65 Precision Products
2199 N Woodruff Ave
Idaho Falls, ID 83401
(208) 522-0480
Products: Pol-Tax kit (Rotax motor in Polaris
chassis), light weight mufflers
20.2.66 Pro 5
(218) 463-2149
Products: Polaris performance
20.2.67 Pro-Tune
14785 Highway #3
Rosemount, MN 55068
(612) 423-1516
Products: Complete engine work and machine shop
20.2.68 Pro-Vue
357 Sandy Court NE
Rochester, MN 55906
800-548-8354
Products: Prescription goggles
20.2.69 PSI
PO Box 72
Wild Rose, WI 54984
(414) 622-4555
Products: Engines, pipes, performance add-ons,
machine shop, clutches
20.2.70 Race Logic
3343 North 215th
LeRoy, MI 49655
(616) 768-5375
Products: Porting templates for all machines
20.2.71 Radar Sales
5485 Pineview Lane
Plymouth, MN 55442
(612) 557-6654
Products: Radar guns
20.2.72 Recreational Engineering
187 East Stearns Ave.
Eden Valley, MN 55329
(612) 453-5000
Products: All types of performance products.
20.2.73 Reichard's Performance Center (RPC)
W188 N10707 Maple Rd
Germantown, WI 53022
(414) 251- 8472
Products: Complete line of performance parts and
accessories
20.2.74 Russeldale Farm Equipment
(519) 229-8975
Products: Tow behind sleds
20.2.75 Ski-Roue
(514) 338-1467
Products: Sled to wheeled vehicle conversion
20.2.76 Sno Pal Kid Wear, Inc.
25803 353rd Avenue SE
Ravensdale, WA 98051
(360) 886-7230
Products: Kid Karrier
20.2.77 Sno Rider
800-635-6103
Products: Clothing and comfort accessories
20.2.78 Snotie Products
PO Box 185
Ogden, Utah 84067
(801) 627-0579
Products: Wind shield bags, storage bags
20.2.79 SnoTime Products
PO Box 185
Roy, Utah 84067
(801) 627-0579
Products: Tank and wind shield bags
20.2.80 Stage VI Performance
3625 Old Plank Road
Milford, MI 48381
(810) 684-0183
Products: Porting, head mods, carb mods for Arctic
Cat, custom pipes, custom clutches
20.2.81 Starting Line Products (SLP)
743 Iona Road
Idaho Falls, Idaho 83401
(208) 529-0244
Products: Tracks, engines, turbos, pipes, light
weight parts, performance add-ons, full machine shop.
E-mail slp@srv.net WEB page at
www.slp.idaho-falls.id.us
20.2.82 Sudco International Corp
3014 Tanager Ave
Commerc, Ca 90040
(213) 728-5407
Products: Mikuni distributor
20.2.83 Sun & Snow
9570 Devils Lake Hwy
Manitou Beach, MI 49253
(517) 547-6166
Products: Polaris parts and accessories
20.2.84 Superior Sleeving
508-584-7248
Products: Full blown cylinder repair shop. E-mail
CYL SLEEVE@aol.com
20.2.85 Swain Technology
35 Main Street
Scotsville, NY 14546
(716) 889-2786
Products: Engine and piston coatings
20.2.86 Terry's Upholstry
11350 President Drive
Boise, ID 83704
(208) 377-4413
Products: Light weight seats, upholstry
20.2.87 The Crank Shop
23 Kellogg Road
Essex Jct., VT 05452
(801) 878-3615
Products: SkiDoo pipes, multi angle helixes
20.2.88 Thomas & Associates
800-426-7130
Products: Communicator battery eliminator
20.2.89 TJ's Snowmobile
P.O.Box 105
Alpine, WY 83128
(307) 654-7815
Products: Accessory gas tank for Yamaha and Ski-Doo
20.2.90 Tracker Tool
3576 Sno-Trac Trail
Grayling, MI 49738
800-215-1752
Products: Track clip tools
20.2.91 Ultimate Sports Inc. (USI)
1704 N 9th Street
Lafayett, IN 47905
(317) 423-2984
Products: Composite skiis
20.2.92 Union Bay Racing
4514 Union Bay Place NE
Seattle, WA 98105
(206) 522-1516
Products: Dyno, engines, specialize in Rotax
20.2.93 Upper Deck
10612 Main Street
Mantua, OH 44255
800-603-2800
Products: Sled carriers for pick-up trucks
20.2.94 Vortex
5582 Wellesley Park Dr. No. 203
Boca Raton, FL 33433
(407) 392-4267
Products: Reeds
20.2.95 Wahl Bros. Racing
PO Box 123
Greenbush, MN 56726
(218) 782-2295
Products: Light weight parts, tracks, suspensions
20.2.96 Wasatch Trailer Sales
720 S. Main
Layton, Utah 84041
800-379-7575
Products: Charmac Snow Shuttle trailers
20.2.97 Wells Cargo
800-348-7553
Products: Trailers - call for dealer near you
20.2.98 Wiseco Piston Inc
7201 Industrial Blvd
Mentor, OH 44060
(216) 951-6600
Products: Piston kits for all machines
20.2.99 Woody's
6054 North M-30
Hope, MI 48628
(517) 689-4911
Products: Traction and steering products
20.3 Used and vintage parts (alphabetical), for additions send
E-mail to tdpetro@aol.com, that's where this list comes from.
20.3.1 371 Sales & Repair, used parts 218-947-3838
20.3.2 Al's Snowmobile Parts Warehouse 802-334-7239 All
brands. VT E-mail alsnowmo@together.net
20.3.3 Allsport Polaris and Salvage 800-359-4884 All brands
WA
20.3.4 Art's Snowmobile Parts 313-586-2572 MI
20.3.5 Art's Snowmobile Salvage and ATV, 715-288-6863 WI
20.3.6 Auto Appearances Unlimited, Late model parts, 603 926
1331 New England
20.3.7 B & D Enterprises 603-286-4832 Mercury specialist NH
20.3.8 Bruce Vruwink Equipment 612-382-6128 New & Used Rotax
motors MN
20.3.9 Bucky's Repair 307-367-4561
20.3.10 Buying (and presumably selling parts from)
used/wrecked Yamaha sleds 319-277-7880 IA
20.3.11 Central Snowmobile Salvage 800-558-6778 All brands WI
20.3.12 Christie's 216-847-0860
20.3.13 Cycle Works, Used parts 403-448-5849 fax 439-0017
20.3.14 David Burns & Son 203-684-9415 Rupp parts CT
20.3.15 Dennis Kirk catalog 800-328-9280
20.3.16 Fowler Electric Co. 800-843-1424 Tillotson, Walbro,
Hirth, JLO, Sachs, Kohler Etc MN
20.3.17 Gary Martin at 612-877-7616. buys and sells used
Scorpions MN
20.3.18 GPL Enterprises, used motors 800-541-7228
20.3.19 Image Enterprises 715-479-7427 Mercury, John Deere,
Kawasaki, Skiroule WI
20.3.20 J & L Sales 203-265-4311 Rupp specialist CT
20.3.21 Kuyahoora Outdoor Ctr, used Ski-Doo parts from 1965
315-826-3312 fax 315-826-7662 NY
20.3.22 McCallum Sales & Service 612-753-1705 Polaris New,
Used, & Old Parts MN
20.3.23 no name, just "1000's of snowmobile parts"
612-421-7217 evenings MN
20.3.24 Northern Power Sports, Kawasaki & Polaris sled parts
800-642-2913, 612-332-2030 MN
20.3.25 Parts Unlimited wholesale catalog at most dealers all
brands, bought John Deere parts from factory (in
special "closeout" catalog) 800-369-1000 for dlr.
20.3.26 Poke-N-Plum Salvage Inc. 517-456-4579 or -6213 All
Brands MI
20.3.27 Recreational Leisure Corp 800-521-6848 new parts for
many older models MI
20.3.28 Recreational Engineering Ltd 612-453-5000 New/used
Polaris parts MN
20.3.29 Recreational Salvage 219-696-4334 fax 696-6465 Eves &
Sun IN
20.3.30 Recycled Cycles, Inc. 800-365-9530
20.3.31 Rocky Sports, Used parts and wrecks 612-784-0862 MN
20.3.32 RVI 207-443-9702 older Polaris, Chaparral, Skiroule,
Rupp; Xehoah, Sachs, Kohler ME
20.3.33 Skaggs Snowmobiles 503-285-0246
20.3.34 Slick's Great Lakes Salvage 517-676-0583 MI
20.3.35 Snow Sled Sales and Service, Used Parts 207-492-5281
800-451-5281 ME
20.3.36 Snow Cats, Inc. 802-875-2720 Used Parts VT
20.3.37 Snowmobile Motorcycle Salvage, Inc, 517-772-3442 MI
20.3.38 Snowmobile Parts Classified
M.H.S. Dist. 612-753-0156 FAX 612-753-6769E-mail
SPCsnow@aol.com
20.3.39 Spanky's Snowmobile Parts 616- 548-5222 MI
20.3.40 Stauffer's Snowmobile Salvage 616-782-6786 MI
20.3.41 Sunnyside Sales and Service used parts, 715-723-9377
WI
20.3.42 Suter's Speed Shop, Madison, WI 608-221-8865 some
wrecked sleds on hand
20.3.43 The Snowmobile Farm 517-872-2747 MI
20.3.44 The Sled Shed 315-964-2577 used parts MI
20.3.45 Underwood's Snowmobile Salvage 616-794-0086 Wants
Tillotson HDs MI
20.3.46 West End Lawn & Leisure. Scorpion, John Deere,
Massey, Ski-Daddler 717-665-4627 PA
20.3.47 Winter Haven Scorpion Snowmobiles 203-283-5538
Scorpion specialist CT
eMail me with comments or suggestions corey@cabler.com